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|3d 17h 25m|
|MOCC||-||$98,900.00||1d 20h 41m|
How to Train Your Horse To Trailer Load
If you're having trouble loading your horse, I strongly suggest the investment of $4.99 in my trailer-training course.
- Download and print from your home computer
- 5 days, 5 chapters
- Learn at your own pace
An excerpt from Trailer Training: An Easy guide to the Proven Methods of John Lyons:
When you first begin this your horse will go to the end of the rope, hit it, and turn back rigidly, no bending. (If he just kinda drifts off at that point, losing energy, get him moving smartly – and be quick about it. He's gotta keep moving; he's gotta "flow.") Practice this enough and you soon realize that your horse (being no dummy) begins to think "My owner's just gonna expect me to turn back here in a second, I'll keep an eye on him." He's developing the "What's Next?" idea in his brain. You'll notice his neck go from staying rigid to being soft and curved; he'll begin to keep his eyes on you, rather than an escape route. He'll start carrying himself curved like a banana or snake rather than stiff like a 2x4.
Next exercise: Stand in front of your horse, with him to your left, facing towards his rear. Hold the lead in your left hand about one foot from the slobber strap. Stare at the point of his hip and think "move left." (We don't want the shoulders to move, just the hip.) Naturally, he'll just stand there – but you must always begin with the lightest amount of pressure "you ever expect the horse to work from." You'll have to add motivation to get the horse to find the answer. Keep staring and thinking "left," but begin twirling the end of the lead in your right hand like a propeller blade. Twirling it faster will make a sound, try that. The "more sensitive type" horses will move right off. Horses that are used to controlling you (rather than the other way around) will require more motivation. Try twirling the rope nearer and nearer the hip. Still nothing? Smack him on the rump with it. It doesn't hurt (try it on your leg), but it makes a big noise and will sort of shock them into doing something. (Note: Don't stand directly in front of the horse when applying such a motivator for obvious reasons. Also, you may want to add a tiny bit of pressure to the lead, suggesting to the horse that his head and front end stay put while the backend moves.) As in all horse training, we're just looking for movement, any movement, the first time or so, before releasing our pressure.